Симферопольский клад - [8]

Beads and buttons are a separate group of decorations. Most of them are golden. Their use was broader than their initial designation would indicate. Thus, they were often sewn to the garments or curtains in the houses of rich feudals. Some spangles in the treasure with punctured apertures also served this purpose.

In addition to gold and silver beads the treasure contained 47 separate cornelian beads of various form and size, one of sapphire and one crystal. It is possible that these beads were used as rosaries.

The treasure also included several bracelets. Of interest is a two-piece bracelet which, unfortunately is not intact. It has an ornament in relief and the following inscription in Persian: "May the Creator of the world patronise the owner of this (object) wherever he may be." It is interesting to note that two similar bracelets with an identical inscription were discovered earlier in the Bulgarian settlement of Dzhuketau, Zhukotin in Russian, situated near Chistopol on the left bank of the Kama river. They differ only in some elements and a finer and more skillfully executed ornament. It appears that the centre where such bracelets were produced was in Iran or in Central Asia.

Round paired bracelets with schematic carved heads of dragons at their tips are probably Central Asian in origin. Parts of the heads are covered with a scale ornament. Two other bracelets in the treasure are compiled of medallions: one of scalloped medallions decorated with granulation and niello and the other of medallions with inserts of turquoise and spinel, their setting also being granulated.

A group of articles comprises golden cases intended for keeping various charms, mostly texts of prayers that played an important role in the life of moslems. The cases were suspended on the chest or neck, sometimes placed in a special pocket or sewn into garments. The treasure contained ten various cases, including cylindrical, shaped and rectangular ones. Four similar cylindrical cases are remarkable for fine workmanship. Their medium part is formed by open-work while the sides are adorned by filigree curlicues on a lining of sheet gold. For decoration of other cylindrical cases stamping technique was applied. One of them has a scale ornament while two others (only parts of them remain) are adorned with curlicues and an ornament imitating an inscription in Arabic resembling the word "glory". The case with a scale ornament was filled with pistachio resin and the remaining two with turquoise. In the Orient it was believed that this stone brings happiness.

There are two shaped cases. One of them has a stamped vivid floral ornament differing on the obverse and reverse sides. Its obverse is adorned with green jasper and cornelians in the form of small hearts. The second case is filigree open-work, the ornament being done in the form of spirals, twigs and curlicues. The lace-like filigree includes ornaments of thin golden bands placed vertically. The entire ornament has a lining of sheet gold. The last case in the treasure is a rectangular one and is decorated with granulation, filigree and a pearl. It is quite possible that this case could be used for cosmetic accessories and was worn on the chest or more likely attached to a belt. A fine, shaped, double-sided object was probably a golden case for prayers, but more likely it was just a decorative pendant. Its open-work ornament is formed by wide spirals with curlicues. The central part of one side shows a setting for a gem (the gem itself has not been preserved), the other side presents an ornamental pattern of two leaves. The image of the rectangular part looks like an imitation of the Arabic ligature. Small holes here were used for suspending the pendant.

The treasure contained a great variety of belts. Belts were an indispensable part of the attire of many peoples. Turko-Mongols paid much attention to this element of their dress. The Tatar-Mongol khans, nobles and high-officials had expensive belts gleaming with precious stones and gold. Quite often belts were listed among gifts granted by khans to their adherents and officials for special services and as a token of reward and gratitude.

Of much interest is a golden belt set consisting of 31 articles: a tip, a spangle with a hook and two spangles with shaped clamps used for attaching necessary things, 22 rectangular, three heart-shaped, one scalloped spangle and a clip. This belt is decorated with inserts of cornelian, one of the most favourite gems in the Orient. The combination of gold and cornelian together with fine ornament made the belt extremely beautiful. The tip and the spangles are two-sided. The obverse is decorated with cornelian and an ornament of curlicues.

The goldsmith also turned much attention to decorating the reverse side. The centre of the spangles and the tip presents' open-work paillettes depicting vines made with great taste. To emphasize the ornament he placed a silver lining under the paillette. Open-work paillettes on each object are framed with floral ornament settings. The next belt set, some elements missing, consists of nine shaped golden spangles and a tip. Each of them has relief scalloped rosette depicting a water bird and floral ornament against a niello background. Not a single bird is repeated, they all are portrayed very dynamically and from different angles.